Finally, after a series of water procedures and fun with a drill and a file, we have a set of a young line builder “Assemble the cylinder head”))
Now from all this we will try to assemble a solid structure and, moreover, preferably a working one))
We grind the valves. This time I used this mega device:
At times you can feel like a primitive man making fire)))
I used to use a tool that is clamped on the valve stem, and so this sucker turned out to be no worse. It even seems to be more convenient and faster with her.
Everyone remembers the purpose of lapping – to get an even matte strip without gaps on the seat and valve plate, which will mean a uniform fit of the valve to the seat. Without fanaticism!
We naturally number the valves or arrange them in order (as you like), in order to subsequently install them in their (lapped) place.
Finished lapping – spill the head. We wait. If it leaks somewhere, repeat the lapping in this place. If not, we take out the valves, wash the cylinder head so that there is no abrasive left anywhere after grinding.
Press in the oil seals.
Some observant people will surely ask – WTF? Why green? Why not Elring? But for the company. For the company with the cylinder head gasket.
On e30tech, I seem to have come across an article that Elring and Victor Reinz cylinder head gaskets have a problem with oil leakage after a rather short period of operation. There was also a comparison, visual and by experience of use, and they came to the conclusion that the Goetze cylinder head gasket is the closest to the original. So I decided to try to put a Goetze cylinder head gasket, and I also ordered oil deflectors from this company.
In the article on preparing the cylinder head, I forgot to mention that it would be a good idea to check your cylinder head for geometry. Surely many have heard that there is a problem in the M20 – the cylinder head “leads” from overheating. Having given the head to the workshop, the turner, at your request, will not question, remove some amount of metal from the plane to get a flat surface. But if the cylinder head is a screw, then this will solve only part of the problems. We still have holes for the axles of the rocker arms and the bed of the camshaft. Those who disassembled the cylinder head probably remember that on some specimens, well, it’s just sooo hard to remove the rocker axles – this is it. And of course, check the camshaft play in the beds – with problems with lubrication, there is often severe wear.
I left the old rocker arms – they are in good condition, do not play and the surface is not erased. To replace two broken ones, I found a used one, also in excellent condition. I decided to leave the original, because. I didn’t read good reviews on replacements. Yes, and in appearance the non-original did not particularly inspire confidence.
Thoroughly rinse and clean the rocker axles! This is an important part of the lubrication system!
Also, do not forget about the tube that runs in the middle of the cylinder head. From it, oil is sprayed onto the camshaft cams. It will not be good at all if it is clogged or some holes in it are clogged.
Whoever disassembled the 885 head knows that the double springs are very reluctant to dry out and assemble back, especially if you use a VAZ puller that clings to the cylinder head studs. Efforts sometimes have to be made simply titanic! Tired of fighting with the donor head 885, THIS was born. In the conditions of a severe crisis and cost savings, a mega-tool for spring compression was created from scraps of metal, an old Soviet door handle, a few nuts and a hairpin, in five seconds. The view, of course, turned out to be hellish, but it performs its function 100%. Thanks for the right tool.
Well, as usual – “assembly in reverse order”)))